A collection of randomly true stories
An alternative view of the world, through the eyes of the surf obsessed. A collection of daily blogs where deep thoughts and big issues have been discussed, such as views on religion and more importantly how to deal with buying a new surfboard. :-)
I first started reading surf journalism in Bali, then Puerto Rico, and the writing in this book harkens back to the classics.
posted at 07:21PM Jul 16 PST
i did not get to read all of the entries, but i thoroughly enjoy reading your little stories and thoughts. You are fantastic.
posted at 07:37AM Oct 27 PST
Thanks very much. Plenty more coming soon... (assuming the waves die off for a while!)
posted at 02:25PM Oct 13 PST
Absolutely cracking writing here, and nice images too! Very well done.
posted at 12:26PM Oct 13 PST
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